Diamond History
"Diamond" comes from the Greek "adamao": "I tame" or "I subdue." The
adjective "adamas" was used to describe the hardest substance known, and
eventually became synonymous with diamond.
Knowledge of diamond
starts in India, where it was first mined. The word most generally used
for diamond in Sanskrit is transliterated as "vajra," "thunderbolt," and
"indrayudha," "Indra's weapon." Because Indra is the warrior god from
Vedic scriptures, the foundation of Hinduism, the thunderbolt symbol
indicates much about the Indian conception of diamond.
Early
descriptions of diamond date to the 4th century BC. By then diamond was a
valued material. The earliest known reference to diamond is a Sanskrit
manuscript by a minister in a northern Indian dynasty. The work is dated
from 320-296 BCE.
Small numbers of diamonds began appearing in
European regalia and jewelry in the 13th century, set as accent points
among pearls in wrought gold. By the 16th century the diamonds became
larger and more prominent, in response to the development of diamond
faceting, which enhances their brilliance and fire. Diamonds came to
dominate small jewels during the 17th century and large ones by the 18th
century.
In the 13th Century, Louis IX of France established a law
reserving diamonds for the king. This bespeaks the rarity of diamonds
and the value conferred on them at that time. Within 100 years diamonds
appeared in royal jewelry of both men and women, then among the greater
European aristocracy, with the wealthy merchant class showing the
occasional diamond by the 17th century.
As more diamonds reached
Europe, demand for them increased. The earliest diamond-cutting industry
is believed to have been in Venice, a trade capital, starting sometime
after 1330. Diamond cutting may have arrived in Paris by the late 14th
century. By the late 14th century, the diamond trade route went to
Bruges and Paris, and later to Antwerp.
By 1499, the Portuguese
navigator Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to the Orient around
the Cape of Good Hope, providing Europeans an end-run around the Arabic
impediment to the trade of diamonds coming from India.
In the 18th
century the diamond became even more abundant. They were worn
principally by women. Substantial quantities of diamonds arrived from
South America, making conspicuous display of the gem possible. Diamonds
were reserved for evening since it was considered vulgar to parade them
by day. Rather than a miscellany of jewels of different types, a matched
set of jewelry was now worn at all important social events.
Two
events near the end of the 19th century helped change the role of
diamonds for the next century. First, the discovery in the 1870s of
diamond deposits of unprecedented richness in South Africa changed
diamond from a rare gem to one potentially available to anyone who could
afford it. Second, the French crown jewels, sold in 1887, were consumed
by newly wealthy capitalists, particularly in the United States, where a
taste and capacity for opulent consumption was burgeoning.
Seen under the blaze of gas and electric lighting, diamond's brilliance
showed to greater advantage than colored stones, and so designs
incorporated them in far greater numbers than at any time in history.
Before the 1870s diamonds were still rare, and associated with the
aristocracy. In 1871, however, world annual production, derived
primarily from South Africa, exceeded 1 million carats for the first
time. From then on, diamonds would be produced at a prodigious rate.
Simultaneously, the fall of Napoleon III in 1871 left the Third
Republic of France with a problematic symbol of monarchy: the crown
jewels, largely reset by Empress Eugenie in the style of the great Louis
kings. It was decided to auction the bulk, retaining a few key objects
for the State.
With French buyers such as Boucheron and Bapst in
attendance, Tiffany & Co. of New York bought the major share; 22
lots for $480,000, a sum greater than the combined purchases of the 9
next-largest buyers.
Today diamonds are mined in about 25
countries. However, only a few diamond deposits were known until the
20th century, when scientific understanding and technology extended
diamond exploration and mining around the globe. For 1,000 years,
starting in roughly the 4th century BC, India was the only source of
diamonds.
In 1725, important sources were discovered in Brazil, and
in the 1870s major finds in South Africa marked a dramatic increase in
the diamond supply. Additional major producers now include several
African countries, Siberian Russia, and Australia.
It is a modern
misconception that the world's diamonds come primarily from South
Africa: diamonds are a worldwide resource. The common characteristic of
primary diamond deposits is the ancient terrain that hosts the
kimberlite and lamproite pipes that bring diamonds to Earth's surface.
Diamond production has increased enormously in the 20th century.
India's maximum production, perhaps 50,000 to 100,000 carats annually in
the 16th century, is very small compared to the current production of
around 100 million carats.
For the most part, except for major wars
and economic recessions, diamond production has been steadily
increasing since then, with non-African sources growing in relative
proportion. Major production is now dominated by Australia, Botswana,
Russia, and Congo Republic (Zaire), but South Africa is still a major
producer, in both volume and value. (David Kohn, “Diamonds: A History”
February 11, 2009, http://www.cbsnews.com)
Diamond 4C’s
Various characteristics of diamonds are graded and categorized by the
diamond industry. Learning about diamonds is first learning about the
"4C’s" of diamonds which are considered the most important grades and
categories:
- Cut
- Clarity
- Color
- Carat
Diamond Cut
One of the most defining characteristics of a diamond is its cut. While high grades of color, clarity, and carat also contribute to a diamond's appeal, it's the cut that determines the symmetry of the stone's facets, its overall proportions, and its ability to reflect light. An expertly cut diamond will achieve high levels of brilliance, sparkle, and durability. Even if a diamond is graded well in other areas, a poor cut can result in a dull, muted effect.
Diamond Anatomy
A diamond is comprised of five main components:
Table- The largest facet of the diamond, which comprises the flat surface on the top of the stone, resembling 'table'.
Crown- This is the top portion of the diamond, located above the girdle and extending below the table.
Girdle-Forming the outer edge of the diamond, this is where the crown and the pavilion meet.
Pavilion-Located at the bottom of the diamond, the pavilion bridges the girdle and the culet.
Culet-The smallest facet of a diamond, the culet is located at the very bottom of the stone.
Light's Effect on a Diamond
There are many factors that determine a diamond's brilliance, the
most important of which is its ability to reflect light. As a diamond is
moved through a light source, tiny flashes will be visible within the
stone. Commonly known as sparkle, this is also referred to as
scintillation, an effect of the stone's reflection and refraction of
light.
Cut Definitions
A diamond's cut is an integral factor in determining its brilliance
and fire. Even a flawless diamond will appear dull and muted if the cut
is poor. When evaluating the cut of a diamond, there are some core
characteristics that should be considered:
Depth & Depth Percentage
A diamond's depth can be determined by measuring the entire stone's
height from the table to the culet and is described in millimeters. The
depth percentage measures the ratio of the stone's depth (from the table
to the culet) to the diamond's total diameter.
Table & Table Percentage
A diamond's table is the largest facet of the stone, comprising the
flat surface on the top. The table percentage is the ratio of the width
of the diamond's top facet in relation to the width of the entire stone.
The right ratio results in a large amount of fire and brilliance.
Measurements
Measured in millimeters, the measurements of a diamond's length,
width, and height are used to evaluate the symmetry and quality of its
cut.
Proportions
A diamond's proportions, a measure of the number and size of facets
and its overall length and width, are integral in determining the
quality of its cut. When a diamond is cut with the ideal proportions for
its shape, it will reflect more light out of the top, resulting in
higher levels of fire and brilliance. A poorly cut diamond with
incongruous proportions will allow light to escape out the bottom and
sides, resulting in a dull, dark appearance.
Polish, Symmetry, Cut Grade
A diamond's polish and symmetry are critical to the quality of its
cut. For maximum brilliance, every facet of a diamond should be
professionally polished after the cutting process. A high-quality polish
will leave little to no scratches and marks, while a poor polish can
result in imperfections on the surface of the diamond, which detract
from its value.
A symmetrical diamond will have well-balanced, properly aligned
facets, resulting in a high level of fire and brilliance. If the facets
are not symmetrical or not optimally shaped, they'll display less
sparkle.
A gemologist assigns a cut grade as a means of measuring a diamond's
proportions, craftsmanship, quality of polish, and light reflecting
properties. A diamond with a high quality cut grade will exude a large
amount of brilliance and fire.
A diamond's ratings for symmetry, polish, and cut grade may vary
based on which Gemological Laboratory is evaluating it, as each agency
uses a different scale.
GIA uses five cut grades:
- Excellent (Ex)
- Very Good (VG)
- Good (GD)
- Fair (F)
- Poor (P)
Cut & Depth
It's the cut of a diamond that determines how much light is reflected
back to the wearer, directly impacting its brilliance and fire.
Diamonds are generally categorized into three main types of cuts:
Shallow cut
Although a shallow cut diamond will create the illusion of a larger
stone, it allows light to escape out the sides instead of reflecting off
the top, creating a lack of brilliance and sparkle.
Ideal cut
If you're seeking a high quality diamond that beautifully reflects
light, this is the cut for you. This premier cut style is
well-proportioned and carefully angled to achieve a luminous appearance.
Deep cut
This type of cut poorly reflects light, resulting in a dull, muted appearance.
(Diamond Cut, http://www.brilliance.com)
Diamond Color
A diamond's color has a significant impact on its appearance. With
its many prismatic facets, a colorless diamond reflects light into a
spectrum of hues, a characteristic often referred to as "fire". The
presence of noticeable color in a diamond may reduce its ability to
reflect light. Consequently, diamonds with lower color grades will not
show the same luminosity and fire as those with higher grades. The most
valuable diamonds have little to no detectable color.
Color Scale
The diamond color scale begins at D (colorless) and ends at Z (light
yellow). Diamond color is often difficult to discern when a diamond is
viewed face up. Therefore, gemologists typically evaluate diamonds
facedown against a pure white surface, illuminated by carefully
controlled lighting. The diamond is then compared to master stones of
predetermined color.
D (Colorless) - Highest-quality color grade a diamond can receive. D-color diamond is extremely rare and emits unrivaled brilliance.
E (Colorless) - Contains minute traces of color. Also a rarity, an E-rated diamond emits a high level of brilliance.
F (Colorless) - Minute traces of color can only be detected by a trained gemologist. This is a high-quality color grade.
G, H (Near Colorless) - Contains noticeable color
only when compared to higher color grades. Appearing colorless to the
untrained eye, a G or H color diamond provides an excellent value.
I, J (Near Colorless)
- Contains slightly detectable color. An I-color or J-color diamond is
an excellent value, as it typically appears colorless to the untrained
eye.
K, L, M (Faint Yellow) - Faint color is noticeable. Even with the presence of color, these grades of diamonds can emit fire and beauty.
Selecting a Color Grade
Color is an important factor to consider when choosing a diamond, as
it is noticeable to the unaided eye. Below are some points to keep in
mind when selecting a color grade:
Those who prefer a colorless diamond should select a stone in the D-F range with a fluorescence rating of "None" or "Faint".
Near colorless diamonds with a rating between G and J are excellent
values, as their color is typically undetectable to the unaided eye.
They can appear whiter when set in platinum or white gold metals. Yellow
gold settings complement diamonds with lower color ratings.
The presence of fluorescence can enhance the visual appeal of a
diamond with a lower-color rating in the J through M range. The
fluorescence helps to cancel out any faint yellow in the stone,
resulting in a colorless appearance. A common misconception is that only
colorless diamonds exude brilliance. In reality, a well-cut diamond can
emit fire and beauty even with traces of faint yellow, although the
presence of color will decrease the stone's value.
Fluorescence
Fluorescence, the effect ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond, is
an important consideration when selecting a diamond. When UV light
strikes a diamond with fluorescent properties, the stone emits a glow
(usually blue) ranging from very faint to quite strong.
Fancy Colored Diamonds
Diamonds that exhibit a color other than light yellow or brown, as
well as diamonds that possess a more intense yellow or brown than the
'Z' color rating, are considered "fancy colored". With only one out of
ten thousand diamonds possessing a natural color, these types of stones
are extremely rare. Depending on the coloration, intensity, and hue of a
diamond, color can either detract or enhance its value. Naturally
occurring diamond colors include gray, white, blue, yellow, orange, red,
green, olive, pink, purple, brown, and black. Red stones are the most
rare of the fancy colored diamonds.
Similar to the process for grading colorless diamonds, a diamond's
fancy color is graded by comparing it to master stones of predetermined
color. Unlike colorless diamonds, fancy colored diamonds are graded face
up. The most important factors in determining the value of a naturally
colored diamond is the strength of its color. The value of a fancy
colored diamond increases with the intensity of the most prominent hue
within the stone. (Diamond Color, http://www.brilliance.com)
Diamond Clarity
Clarity refers to the number of internal flaws and blemishes, often
called inclusions, in a diamond. The highest quality diamonds have no
inclusions. The GIA clarity scale ranges from FL-IF (no flaws and the
most expensive) to I3 (many visible inclusions).
FL: Flawless. No internal or external flaws.
IF: Internally flawless.
VVS1 & VVS2: Very, very slightly included. Inclusions are difficult to see even under 10x magnification.
VS1 & VS2: Very slightly included. Inclusions typically aren’t visible to the naked eye.
SI1 & SI2: Slightly included. Inclusions typically visible under 10x magnification. Some may have visible inclusions.
I1: Included. These will have a flaw visible to the naked eye.
I2 & I3: Included. These will have visible inclusions.
Diamond Carat
A carat (ct.) is the unit of measurement specifically used to
describe the weight of a diamond (or other gemstones). Its name comes
from the carob seed – a small seed with a typically uniform weight that
early gem traders used as counterweights for balancing their scales,
according to the GIA. A single carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams, or 200
milligrams, and is divided into 100 points.
A certified diamond that comes with a grading report will indicate
the exact carat weight to the nearest hundredth of a carat, in decimal
format. A 1-carat diamond has 100 points (1.00) while a ¾ carat stone
has 75 points (0.75).
The carat is probably the most familiar of the 4C terms because it is
the easiest one to understand just by looking at the stone. However,
people often mistakenly assume that a diamond’s size is synonymous with
its weight, though that’s not necessarily true. The way a diamond is cut
can actually obscure its size and true weight. The following diagram
shows the relative size of carat weights for a diamond that is cut to
the same proportions:
Note: Diamond illustrations show relative size, not actual size.
Carat Weight Scale
It’s important to note that it’s not just the carat weight, but also
the quality of the stone at that weight that helps determine the
diamond’s value. Factors that determine quality include the cut, color, clarity,
and finish. Diamond values also increase disproportionately to the size
of the stone, since larger diamonds are more rare .In other words, a
three-carat stone with equal color, clarity, and cut can end up costing
significantly more than three times the cost of a one-carat stone.
(Diamond Carat Weight, http://www.diamond.com)
Diamond Shapes
The classic diamond is, to most people, a round gem of sparkling
white brilliance with a kaleidoscope of dazzling facets to entice the
eye.
Diamonds are natural crystals of varying size and shape formed in the
earth over millions of years. The traditional round brilliant diamond,
though the most popular diamond shape of all, is hardly the whole story.
By the diamond cutter's art these crystals are carved into gems of
spectacular and whimsical beauty. A cutter's skill will produce a
diamond of the greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most
brilliance.
Diamonds can be cut in different shapes:
Round Brilliant cut
This shape has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and
accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. Its 58-facet cut,
divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base),
is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire
and brilliance.
Oval cut
An even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small
hands or short fingers. Its elongated shape gives a flattering illusion
of length to the hand.
Marquise cut
An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of
the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's
Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is gorgeous when used as
a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds.
Pear Shaped cut
A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is
shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. It also belongs to that category
of diamond whose design most complements a hand with small or
average-length fingers. It is particularly beautiful for pendants or
earrings.
Heart Shaped cut
This ultimate symbol of romance is essentially a pear-shaped diamond
with a cleft at the top. The skill of the cutter determines the beauty
of the cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined
outline.Emerald cut
This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. It is known as a step cut
because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. Since
inclusions and inferior color are more pronounced in this particular
cut, take pains to select a stone of superior clarity and color.
Princess cut
This is a square or rectangular cut with numerous sparkling facets. It
is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire
engagement rings. Flattering to a hand with long fingers, it is often
embellished with triangular stones at its sides. Because of its design,
this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth
in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not
uncommon.
Trilliant cut
This is a spectacular wedge of brittle fire. First developed in
Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's
natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may
be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded
triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the
pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.
Radiant cut
This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald
shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets
maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this
cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in
order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not
uncommon.
Cushion cut
An antique style of cut that looks like a cross between an Old Mine
Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and
the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut.
The shape of things to come in diamonds has already produced other
fanciful and innovative styles such as the flower, cloverleaf, triangle
and kite. Nor does it stop there. Some cuts are variations on standard
shapes, others spin off the natural crystal formation of the stone, and
still others take the idea of shape to revolutionary new heights.
Individuality and taste determine the fashion, and the magic of the gem
cutter transforms each stone into a unique work of art.(“Diamond
Shapes”, http://www.thediamondbuyingguide.com)
