Diamonds

Diamond History

"Diamond" comes from the Greek "adamao": "I tame" or "I subdue." The adjective "adamas" was used to describe the hardest substance known, and eventually became synonymous with diamond.
Knowledge of diamond starts in India, where it was first mined. The word most generally used for diamond in Sanskrit is transliterated as "vajra," "thunderbolt," and "indrayudha," "Indra's weapon." Because Indra is the warrior god from Vedic scriptures, the foundation of Hinduism, the thunderbolt symbol indicates much about the Indian conception of diamond.
Early descriptions of diamond date to the 4th century BC. By then diamond was a valued material. The earliest known reference to diamond is a Sanskrit manuscript by a minister in a northern Indian dynasty. The work is dated from 320-296 BCE.
Small numbers of diamonds began appearing in European regalia and jewelry in the 13th century, set as accent points among pearls in wrought gold. By the 16th century the diamonds became larger and more prominent, in response to the development of diamond faceting, which enhances their brilliance and fire. Diamonds came to dominate small jewels during the 17th century and large ones by the 18th century.
In the 13th Century, Louis IX of France established a law reserving diamonds for the king. This bespeaks the rarity of diamonds and the value conferred on them at that time. Within 100 years diamonds appeared in royal jewelry of both men and women, then among the greater European aristocracy, with the wealthy merchant class showing the occasional diamond by the 17th century.
As more diamonds reached Europe, demand for them increased. The earliest diamond-cutting industry is believed to have been in Venice, a trade capital, starting sometime after 1330. Diamond cutting may have arrived in Paris by the late 14th century. By the late 14th century, the diamond trade route went to Bruges and Paris, and later to Antwerp.
By 1499, the Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to the Orient around the Cape of Good Hope, providing Europeans an end-run around the Arabic impediment to the trade of diamonds coming from India.
In the 18th century the diamond became even more abundant. They were worn principally by women. Substantial quantities of diamonds arrived from South America, making conspicuous display of the gem possible. Diamonds were reserved for evening since it was considered vulgar to parade them by day. Rather than a miscellany of jewels of different types, a matched set of jewelry  was now worn at all important social events.
Two events near the end of the 19th century helped change the role of diamonds for the next century. First, the discovery in the 1870s of diamond deposits of unprecedented richness in South Africa changed diamond from a rare gem to one potentially available to anyone who could afford it. Second, the French crown jewels, sold in 1887, were consumed by newly wealthy capitalists, particularly in the United States, where a taste and capacity for opulent consumption was burgeoning.

Seen under the blaze of gas and electric lighting, diamond's brilliance showed to greater advantage than colored stones, and so designs incorporated them in far greater numbers than at any time in history.

Before the 1870s diamonds were still rare, and associated with the aristocracy. In 1871, however, world annual production, derived primarily from South Africa, exceeded 1 million carats for the first time. From then on, diamonds would be produced at a prodigious rate.
Simultaneously, the fall of Napoleon III in 1871 left the Third Republic of France with a problematic symbol of monarchy: the crown jewels, largely reset by Empress Eugenie in the style of the great Louis kings. It was decided to auction the bulk, retaining a few key objects for the State.
With French buyers such as Boucheron and Bapst in attendance, Tiffany & Co. of New York bought the major share; 22 lots for $480,000, a sum greater than the combined purchases of the 9 next-largest buyers.
Today diamonds are mined in about 25 countries. However, only a few diamond deposits were known until the 20th century, when scientific understanding and technology extended diamond exploration and mining around the globe. For 1,000 years, starting in roughly the 4th century BC, India was the only source of diamonds.
In 1725, important sources were discovered in Brazil, and in the 1870s major finds in South Africa marked a dramatic increase in the diamond supply. Additional major producers now include several African countries, Siberian Russia, and Australia.
It is a modern misconception that the world's diamonds come primarily from South Africa: diamonds are a worldwide resource. The common characteristic of primary diamond deposits is the ancient terrain that hosts the kimberlite and lamproite pipes that bring diamonds to Earth's surface.
Diamond production has increased enormously in the 20th century. India's maximum production, perhaps 50,000 to 100,000 carats annually in the 16th century, is very small compared to the current production of around 100 million carats.
For the most part, except for major wars and economic recessions, diamond production has been steadily increasing since then, with non-African sources growing in relative proportion. Major production is now dominated by Australia, Botswana, Russia, and Congo Republic (Zaire), but South Africa is still a major producer, in both volume and value. (David Kohn, “Diamonds: A History” February 11, 2009, http://www.cbsnews.com)

Diamond 4C’s

Various characteristics of diamonds are graded and categorized by the diamond industry. Learning about diamonds is first learning about the "4C’s" of diamonds which are considered the most important grades and categories:

• Cut
• Clarity
• Color
• Carat

Diamond Cut

One of the most defining characteristics of a diamond is its cut. While high grades of color, clarity, and carat also contribute to a diamond's appeal, it's the cut that determines the symmetry of the stone's facets, its overall proportions, and its ability to reflect light. An expertly cut diamond will achieve high levels of brilliance, sparkle, and durability. Even if a diamond is graded well in other areas, a poor cut can result in a dull, muted effect.

 

Diamond Anatomy

A diamond is comprised of five main components:

Table- The largest facet of the diamond, which comprises the flat surface on the top of the stone, resembling 'table'.

Crown- This is the top portion of the diamond, located above the girdle and extending below the table.

Girdle-Forming the outer edge of the diamond, this is where the crown and the pavilion meet.

Pavilion-Located at the bottom of the diamond, the pavilion bridges the girdle and the culet.

Culet-The smallest facet of a diamond, the culet is located at the very bottom of the stone.

Light's Effect on a Diamond

There are many factors that determine a diamond's brilliance, the most important of which is its ability to reflect light. As a diamond is moved through a light source, tiny flashes will be visible within the stone. Commonly known as sparkle, this is also referred to as scintillation, an effect of the stone's reflection and refraction of light.

Cut Definitions

A diamond's cut is an integral factor in determining its brilliance and fire. Even a flawless diamond will appear dull and muted if the cut is poor. When evaluating the cut of a diamond, there are some core characteristics that should be considered:

Depth & Depth Percentage

A diamond's depth can be determined by measuring the entire stone's height from the table to the culet and is described in millimeters. The depth percentage measures the ratio of the stone's depth (from the table to the culet) to the diamond's total diameter.

Table & Table Percentage

A diamond's table is the largest facet of the stone, comprising the flat surface on the top. The table percentage is the ratio of the width of the diamond's top facet in relation to the width of the entire stone. The right ratio results in a large amount of fire and brilliance.

Measurements

Measured in millimeters, the measurements of a diamond's length, width, and height are used to evaluate the symmetry and quality of its cut.

Proportions

A diamond's proportions, a measure of the number and size of facets and its overall length and width, are integral in determining the quality of its cut. When a diamond is cut with the ideal proportions for its shape, it will reflect more light out of the top, resulting in higher levels of fire and brilliance. A poorly cut diamond with incongruous proportions will allow light to escape out the bottom and sides, resulting in a dull, dark appearance.

Polish, Symmetry, Cut Grade

A diamond's polish and symmetry are critical to the quality of its cut. For maximum brilliance, every facet of a diamond should be professionally polished after the cutting process. A high-quality polish will leave little to no scratches and marks, while a poor polish can result in imperfections on the surface of the diamond, which detract from its value.

A symmetrical diamond will have well-balanced, properly aligned facets, resulting in a high level of fire and brilliance. If the facets are not symmetrical or not optimally shaped, they'll display less sparkle.

A gemologist assigns a cut grade as a means of measuring a diamond's proportions, craftsmanship, quality of polish, and light reflecting properties. A diamond with a high quality cut grade will exude a large amount of brilliance and fire.

A diamond's ratings for symmetry, polish, and cut grade may vary based on which Gemological Laboratory is evaluating it, as each agency uses a different scale.

GIA uses five cut grades:

• Excellent (Ex)
• Very Good (VG)
• Good (GD)
• Fair (F)
• Poor (P)

Cut & Depth

It's the cut of a diamond that determines how much light is reflected back to the wearer, directly impacting its brilliance and fire. Diamonds are generally categorized into three main types of cuts:

Shallow cut

Although a shallow cut diamond will create the illusion of a larger stone, it allows light to escape out the sides instead of reflecting off the top, creating a lack of brilliance and sparkle.

Ideal cut

If you're seeking a high quality diamond that beautifully reflects light, this is the cut for you. This premier cut style is well-proportioned and carefully angled to achieve a luminous appearance.

Deep cut

This type of cut poorly reflects light, resulting in a dull, muted appearance.

(Diamond Cut, http://www.brilliance.com)

Diamond Color

A diamond's color has a significant impact on its appearance. With its many prismatic facets, a colorless diamond reflects light into a spectrum of hues, a characteristic often referred to as "fire". The presence of noticeable color in a diamond may reduce its ability to reflect light. Consequently, diamonds with lower color grades will not show the same luminosity and fire as those with higher grades. The most valuable diamonds have little to no detectable color.

Color Scale

The diamond color scale begins at D (colorless) and ends at Z (light yellow). Diamond color is often difficult to discern when a diamond is viewed face up. Therefore, gemologists typically evaluate diamonds facedown against a pure white surface, illuminated by carefully controlled lighting. The diamond is then compared to master stones of predetermined color.

D (Colorless) - Highest-quality color grade a diamond can receive. D-color diamond is extremely rare and emits unrivaled brilliance.

E (Colorless) - Contains minute traces of color. Also a rarity, an E-rated diamond emits a high level of brilliance.

F (Colorless) - Minute traces of color can only be detected by a trained gemologist. This is a high-quality color grade.

G, H (Near Colorless) - Contains noticeable color only when compared to higher color grades. Appearing colorless to the untrained eye, a G or H color diamond provides an excellent value.

I, J (Near Colorless) - Contains slightly detectable color. An I-color or J-color diamond is an excellent value, as it typically appears colorless to the untrained eye.

K, L, M (Faint Yellow) - Faint color is noticeable. Even with the presence of color, these grades of diamonds can emit fire and beauty.

Selecting a Color Grade

Color is an important factor to consider when choosing a diamond, as it is noticeable to the unaided eye. Below are some points to keep in mind when selecting a color grade:

Those who prefer a colorless diamond should select a stone in the D-F range with a fluorescence rating of "None" or "Faint".

Near colorless diamonds with a rating between G and J are excellent values, as their color is typically undetectable to the unaided eye. They can appear whiter when set in platinum or white gold metals. Yellow gold settings complement diamonds with lower color ratings.

The presence of fluorescence can enhance the visual appeal of a diamond with a lower-color rating in the J through M range. The fluorescence helps to cancel out any faint yellow in the stone, resulting in a colorless appearance. A common misconception is that only colorless diamonds exude brilliance. In reality, a well-cut diamond can emit fire and beauty even with traces of faint yellow, although the presence of color will decrease the stone's value.

Fluorescence

Fluorescence, the effect ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond, is an important consideration when selecting a diamond. When UV light strikes a diamond with fluorescent properties, the stone emits a glow (usually blue) ranging from very faint to quite strong.

Fancy Colored Diamonds

Diamonds that exhibit a color other than light yellow or brown, as well as diamonds that possess a more intense yellow or brown than the 'Z' color rating, are considered "fancy colored". With only one out of ten thousand diamonds possessing a natural color, these types of stones are extremely rare. Depending on the coloration, intensity, and hue of a diamond, color can either detract or enhance its value. Naturally occurring diamond colors include gray, white, blue, yellow, orange, red, green, olive, pink, purple, brown, and black. Red stones are the most rare of the fancy colored diamonds.

Similar to the process for grading colorless diamonds, a diamond's fancy color is graded by comparing it to master stones of predetermined color. Unlike colorless diamonds, fancy colored diamonds are graded face up. The most important factors in determining the value of a naturally colored diamond is the strength of its color. The value of a fancy colored diamond increases with the intensity of the most prominent hue within the stone. (Diamond Color, http://www.brilliance.com)

Diamond Clarity

Clarity refers to the number of internal flaws and blemishes, often called inclusions, in a diamond. The highest quality diamonds have no inclusions. The GIA clarity scale ranges from FL-IF (no flaws and the most expensive) to I3 (many visible inclusions).

FL: Flawless. No internal or external flaws.

IF: Internally flawless.

VVS1 & VVS2: Very, very slightly included. Inclusions are difficult to see even under 10x magnification.

VS1 & VS2: Very slightly included. Inclusions typically aren’t visible to the naked eye.

SI1 & SI2: Slightly included. Inclusions typically visible under 10x magnification. Some may have visible inclusions.

I1: Included. These will have a flaw visible to the naked eye.

I2 & I3: Included. These will have visible inclusions.

Diamond Carat

A carat (ct.) is the unit of measurement specifically used to describe the weight of a diamond (or other gemstones). Its name comes from the carob seed – a small seed with a typically uniform weight that early gem traders used as counterweights for balancing their scales, according to the GIA. A single carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams, or 200 milligrams, and is divided into 100 points.

A certified diamond that comes with a grading report will indicate the exact carat weight to the nearest hundredth of a carat, in decimal format. A 1-carat diamond has 100 points (1.00) while a ¾ carat stone has 75 points (0.75).

The carat is probably the most familiar of the 4C terms because it is the easiest one to understand just by looking at the stone. However, people often mistakenly assume that a diamond’s size is synonymous with its weight, though that’s not necessarily true. The way a diamond is cut can actually obscure its size and true weight. The following diagram shows the relative size of carat weights for a diamond that is cut to the same proportions:

Note: Diamond illustrations show relative size, not actual size.

Carat Weight Scale

It’s important to note that it’s not just the carat weight, but also the quality of the stone at that weight that helps determine the diamond’s value. Factors that determine quality include the cut, color, clarity, and finish. Diamond values also increase disproportionately to the size of the stone, since larger diamonds are more rare .In other words, a three-carat stone with equal color, clarity, and cut can end up costing significantly more than three times the cost of a one-carat stone. (Diamond Carat Weight, http://www.diamond.com)

Diamond Shapes

The classic diamond is, to most people, a round gem of sparkling white brilliance with a kaleidoscope of dazzling facets to entice the eye.

Diamonds are natural crystals of varying size and shape formed in the earth over millions of years. The traditional round brilliant diamond, though the most popular diamond shape of all, is hardly the whole story.

By the diamond cutter's art these crystals are carved into gems of spectacular and whimsical beauty. A cutter's skill will produce a diamond of the greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most brilliance.

Diamonds can be cut in different shapes: 

Round Brilliant cut

 This shape has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.

Oval cut

  An even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small hands or short fingers. Its elongated shape gives a flattering illusion of length to the hand.

Marquise cut

An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is gorgeous when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds.

Pear Shaped cut

  A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. It also belongs to that category of diamond whose design most complements a hand with small or average-length fingers. It is particularly   beautiful for pendants or earrings.

Heart Shaped cut 

This ultimate symbol of romance is essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top. The skill of the cutter determines the beauty of the cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline.

Emerald cut

  This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. It is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. Since inclusions and inferior color are more pronounced in this particular cut, take pains to select a stone of superior clarity and color.

Princess cut

  This is a square or rectangular cut with numerous sparkling facets. It is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. Flattering to a hand with long fingers, it is often embellished with triangular stones at its sides. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.

Trilliant cut

  This is a spectacular wedge of brittle fire. First developed in Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.

Radiant cut  

 This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.

  
Cushion cut

  An antique style of cut that looks like a cross between an Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut.

The shape of things to come in diamonds has already produced other fanciful and innovative styles such as the flower, cloverleaf, triangle and kite. Nor does it stop there. Some cuts are variations on standard shapes, others spin off the natural crystal formation of the stone, and still others take the idea of shape to revolutionary new heights. Individuality and taste determine the fashion, and the magic of the gem cutter transforms each stone into a unique work of art.(“Diamond Shapes”, http://www.thediamondbuyingguide.com)

Credit: gyjewelry
Source:http://www.gyjewelry.com/en/education/diamonds-257